A week in Hermosillo.
Exhausted from a long day riding from Magdalena, I slept very well that night. Next day, Daniel and I took a day trip out to the beach, in Bahia de Kino. Bahia de Kino is a small, quiet resort town. It reminded me of various features of So Cal; beachfront homes back-dropped with mountains and desert. It was a clear day, but the winds blew cold air on the shore. I wasn’t tempted to swim in the ocean. We had company at the end of the day, a homeless cowboy asking for change. The intoxicated cowboy noticed I was cold as we were shivering a the bus stop, so he made me a bonfire from cardboard from the garbage. It was a nice effort. I didn’t want to inhale the plastic wrapping so I stood away nodding, thanking him in Espanol that I appreciated the gesture.
The next night, Dani, his sister Denise and I went out for a Saturday night fiesta. First we went to a pre-party at a bachelors apartment. To my pleasant surprise, the music was psy-trance (space hippie trance).This made me very happy-it felt like I was home in SF. The psy-culture is an international family- the music and dance is a language itself. I felt like I already knew them because we enjoyed the same, weird music. The boys made efforts to speak with me in English and I practiced my Espanol. I was really happy to hang out with these guys. I even dj’ed! I played one of my favorite tracks- Crazy Astronaut- Sarte.
Next we went to a reggae/punk/freestyle rap party at the La Bohemia Bar. I was surprised by the culture and the fluency of English spoken- felt like I was still in America. Some were dressed with dreads (fun fact- they call dreads “rastas”) and the colors of the Jamaican flag. Others were cute punk-chick styles. Almost everyone spoke English from poor to fluent- all were very patient to let me practice in Espanol. I had discussions with Julio, a hipster chef who had lived in AZ, about the media image of Mexico VS reality and the comparison of dangerous US cities and Mexico’s. Hermosillo is like any other city I have visited. It’s youth culture is hip, educated, and they don’t appear to be hindered by the “bad stuff” going on.
The following days were a bonfire (fogata) gathering, a return to the psy-trance home, and recovery because I came down with a cold. I was fortunate to rest in Daniels parents home. They were very kind to feed me homemade meals, fruit, and tea. As I recovered, I researched for following CS host. I though an SF friend would meet me in Los Mochis for the Copper Canyon ride. When I found out he couldn’t, sadness came over me. The idea of riding on the train alone, touring alone, busing because the fear of touring alone, not knowing when I would meet up with Amelia who’s touring from Baja, the holidays, feelings of cowardliness- became a overwhelming moment that let to a slight ‘Poor Mary’ breakdown. I cried, balled up in a fetal position. Holding on to a little hope that “tomorrow” would be better.
The next morning, a message that I sent back in Magdalena, had a response. It was Helena, a UK girl who has been touring the US west coast and along the Baja. I caught her blog on the front page of crazyguyonabike.org. I sent her a message, just as a random shot at a chance. Turned out she was intending to take a ferry over to the mainland and take the Copper Canyon train before xmas.
After a few emails, she confirmed that she will take the ferry over in a couple days to Guaymas and we will ride to Los Mochis. The Copper Canyon ride is a maybe. I am so happy! I had a week to rest in Hermosillo with my new friend, go to the beach, practice my Spanish, eat yummy food, party, got a mx bank account+card, arrange the next CS host stays, recovered from a cold, and a happy surprise to have a tour partner for the next few weeks!